71st Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase
 

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Claudia Aguirre Ph.D.
Neuroscientist and Mind-Body Expert
doctorclaudia.com

Dr. Claudia Aguirre is a neuroscientist and mind-body expert, specializing in the connection between the brain and the skin. She received her Bachelor of Science degree from UCLA and earned her Doctorate degree from the University of Southern California, where she investigated hormonal interactions in the aging brain. In between her studies, she researched molecular mechanisms of schizophrenia at the National Institute of Mental Health (NIMH). She has also completed a certificate course on Yoga, Mindfulness and Social Change at Loyola Marymount University (LMU).


Dr. Aguirre is a TEDx speaker and consults internationally in the health and wellness industries. Her clients include Unilever, Samsung, Red Bull, Dyson, and Davines, and she has current projects with TED Ed, NASA and the Global Wellness Institute.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

The Brain-Skin Connection: Formulating For the Wellness World


 
Debbie Alexander DPhil
Director, Business Development
23andMe

Debbie's role at 23andMe involves forging innovative healthcare and research partnerships across a broad range of disease areas. Prior to joining 23andMe, Debbie was Assistant Director, Licensing, at University of California, San Francisco and specialized in the rapidly-growing area of dHealth innovations. While at UCSF, Debbie managed a large intellectual property portfolio of biomedical inventions, successfully negotiated a wide range of licensing deals, and played critical roles in the formations of several UCSF start-ups. Debbie was previously a Scientific Curator at TAIR, the worldwide Arabidopsis database; and also performed postdoctoral research at Stanford University. Debbie holds a DPhil in Plant Sciences from the University of Oxford and a BSc in Molecular Biology and Biochemistry from Durham University.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Genetics and the future of skincare

Genetics plays an important role in skin conditions such as acne; skin aging factors such as collagen loss, age spots, and wrinkle formation; and also sensitivity to and effectiveness of skincare product ingredients. With consumers expecting greater personalization from the products they purchase, the cosmetics and personal care industry has seen a surge in health and beauty products tailored to an individual's genetics, ethnicity, and skin type.  Understanding the genes involved in various skin conditions can drive the ultimate personalized model for skin care and fuel development of more effective products. This talk will cover current innovations and innovators using genetics to personalize skincare products and also where the industry is heading.



 
Tia Alkazaz
Technical Marketing Manager
Active Micro Technologies

Tia Alkazaz is the Technical Marketing Manager of Active Micro Technologies. Fueled by her interest in cosmetic microbiology and product development, Tia focuses on the study of innovative peptide technology and other alternative antimicrobial materials that are effective, safe, and stable to both chemists and consumers alike. Tia received a Bachelor of Science in Biochemistry from the University of Mount Union and a Master of Science in Pharmaceutical Science with a Concentration in Cosmetic Science from the University of Cincinnati.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Balancing the Microbiome: Natural Antimicrobials and the Microbial Population of Skin Microflora
Tia Alkazaz, Maureen Danaher, Jennifer Goodman, Erica Segura, and Durant Scholz

The current innovative study demonstrates the influence of topical antimicrobials on the skin microbiome. As research into the skin's microbiome is advancing at an amazing pace, the opportunity to leverage this knowledge for the cosmetics and personal care industry can drive innovative product development. The skin microbiome is an accumulation of the microbial communities that inhabit the skin and are key players in host defense, with commensal microflora playing a role in maintaining skin health. The action of indiscriminate microbial action employed by preservatives, often unintentionally alters the thriving ecosystem of the skin microbiome. 

 
K.P. Ananth Ph.D.
Professor
College of Pharmacy at University of Cincinnati

Dr. Kavssery P. Ananthapadmanabhan (K.P. Ananth) is a professor and the director of the Cosmetic Science Program at the College of Pharmacy at University of Cincinnati.  Ananth obtained his B. Tech from Indian Institute of Technology in Mumbai in 1974.  He obtained his MS and D. Eng. Sci. degrees in 1976 and 1980 respectively from Columbia University in New York, specializing in surfactants and colloids.  Ananth spent 3 years as a post-doctoral fellow and adjunct faculty at Columbia University and then joined Union Carbide Corporation, at their Surface Chemistry Skill Center in Tarrytown, New York.  In 1990, Ananth moved to Unilever R & D, initially in Edgewater, NJ and then in Trumbull CT and spent the next 26+ years in various capacities in the personal care area including leading their longer-term skin cleansing research.  He is an author/co-author in 120+ publications and 35+ patents.  He also co-edited a book titled, “Interactions of surfactants with polymers and proteins: with Des Goddard.  Career achievements include Unilever's Lifetime Achievement Award for Contributions to Science in 2016.  After retiring from Unilever in 2016, Ananth joined the College of Pharmacy as a professor and director of their Cosmetic Science program. 

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Skin pH vs Product pH in the context of Skin cleansing and Care  

 
David Berends
Technology Leader
SRI International

David Berends is a Technology Leader in the Center for Vision Technologies at the Princeton, NJ facility of SRI International, where he has worked since 2000. Prior to joining SRI, he served as Director of Instrument Development for Datacolor International (Lawrenceville, NJ) and as Vice President of Engineering for Color & Appearance Technology (Princeton, NJ).  His Datacolor and CAT work included the design of several commercially successful benchtop and portable spectrophotometers for industrial color measurement. His prior work focused on developing Gamma and X-ray spectroscopic instrumentation while working for Princeton Gamma-Tech (Rocky Hill, NJ), now part of Thermo Fisher Scientific.
 
While a staff member at Sarnoff Corporation (prior to its integration into SRI International), Mr. Berends worked on a wide variety of programs, including the development of a tooth microphone for clandestine communications, a mobile electric field detection system for locating faults in underground electric distribution systems, a stand-off person-borne IED detection system, and multiple computer vision-based situational awareness systems. With SRI, he has led a variety of programs for several of the world’s largest cosmetic manufacturers. His professional memberships have included IEEE, SPIE, ISCC, and the MicroAnalysis Society. 
 
Mr. Berends has published over 20 papers and holds 7 U.S. patents. Mr. Berends is a graduate of Princeton University, where he received his BS in Electrical Engineering & Computer Science. An accomplished jazz composer and pianist, he currently resides in Skillman, NJ.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Emerging Trends for Cosmetic Applications on Personal Devices

The proliferation of portable personal devices, such as smartphones and tablets, presents major opportunities for the cosmetics industry.  In this discussion, we will touch upon the emerging trends in technologies embedded in personal devices that will allow consumers to assess, monitor and enhance their appearance.  Such trends include: image sensors with enhanced resolution and spectral response; multiple cameras for depth estimation; and enhanced processing power to build 3D models of the human face and render them under different lighting conditions.  The recent availability of tools to port deep neural nets to personal devices will enable detection of facial features and human emotions in real time.
 
By intelligently leveraging several key portable device capabilities—including controlled illumination, pose estimation, nearfield image capture and fast processing—our smartphones and tablets can be transformed into powerful measurement instruments fully capable of producing actionable results at a fraction of the cost of their laboratory counterparts. For example, apps transforming our handheld devices into colorimeters—certainly of interest to cosmeticians and skin care professionals—can be readily found both in App Stores and from some cosmetics vendors themselves. Our talk will discuss several types of appearance measurement apps available either now or in the near future, and will include a demo of a focused-optimized macro lens app which operates using only those capabilities found in all modern smartphones.

 
Richard S Blackburn Ph.D.
Founder of Keracol Limited and Associate Professor
University of Leeds

Dr. Blackburn’s key areas of research focus around the principles of sustainability and how these principles can be applied in the fields of materials science, coloration technology and cosmetics. His research is important in terms of the contribution to basic research, fundamental discoveries, and influence on the direction of the field, making a significant contribution to the scientific community. His research also has significant impact in its application in terms of providing more sustainable products and processes for industry and society. Dr. Blackburn is co-founder and director of University spin-out company Keracol Limited, which develops novel approaches to the extraction of active molecules from plant sources, and fractionating and purifying them for multiple applications, both existing and novel. Keracol extracts are effectively applied in cosmetic products for hair coloration, hair care and skin care. Keracol have invented novel hair dye systems that utilize solely natural and renewable materials, providing a solution to unmet needs in the personal care industry, where there is huge consumer demand for personal care products containing natural and renewable ingredients.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Nature’s amazing chemistry: extraction from sustainable sources and application in cosmetics
Dr. Richard S. Blackburna,b
aSustainable Materials Research Group, School of Design, University of Leeds, UK
bKeracol Limited, University of Leeds, UK

Nature makes amazing chemistry and increasing numbers of naturally-derived ingredients are appearing in cosmetic products, but with little understanding of their activity or composition. Actives from plant material were isolated using green chemistry principles and applications developed for sustainable and functional cosmetics. A range of natural extracts derived from grape (Vitis vinifera L.) skin waste, including resveratrol and several flavonols, were developed as actives for antiaging skincare products and demonstrated high antioxidant activity and skin appearance benefits. Anthocyanins colorants from blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum L.) skin waste were extracted and purified whilst preserving glycosylation enabling advantageous formulation, stability, and application; these colorants were effectively employed as hair colorants showing excellent colour properties and good wash fastness. A novel formulation was developed to allow biopolymers extracted from seaweed to be effectively employed in high ethanol containing solvent systems for hair styling; performance was shown to be superior to PVP/PVP-VA hair styling products.

 
David Boudier
Scientific Communication Manager
SILAB

Mr. David BOUDIER is the Scientific Communication Manager at SILAB. He is a graduate of the “Institut de Physiologie et de Biologie Cellulaire”, University of Poitiers, France. He held a Degree of engineer in cellular biology in 2004. He was Cell Culture Project Leader in the SILAB laboratory between 2004 and 2007 and is in charge of the SILAB Scientific Communication unit since October 2007.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Biological Signature of the Well-Aging Skin
Pauline Rouaud-Tinguely, David Boudier, Carine Mainzer, Laëtitia Marchand, Maud Le Guillou, Brigitte Closs

The aim of this study was to distinguish well-aging and poorly-aging populations within aged skin, at both cellular, tissue and individual levels.

 
Christopher Caires Ph.D.
Chief Innovation Officer
Perricone MD

Chris earned his B.S. degree in Creative Studies from UC Santa Barbara, his PhD in Organic Chemistry from Stanford University, and his MBA from the University of Michigan Ross School of Business.  Chris began his career at Johnson & Johnson where he led the development of some of the most successful consumer products in the history of the Neutrogena brand, including Rapid Wrinkle Repair and Neutrogena Naturals. Following J&J Chris spent worked at BASF leading many successful collaborative innovation projects with customers across the consumer, industrial, and medical industries.  Chris is currently the Chief Innovation Officer at Perricone MD, where he is responsible for developing and executing on the product and innovation strategy.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

A cosmetic chemist’s guide to beauty supplements

Perricone MD has been a leader in both supplements and skincare since its founding 20 years ago.  Learn about how Perricone MD has been able to grow and sustain their supplement business and capitalize on the “beauty from the inside” trend.  The talk will be geared towards cosmetics professionals that want a crash course on some of the rules, regulations, and best practices of creating beauty supplements. 

 
Cristina Carreño Ph.D.
Global New Business Development Director for Active Ingredients
Lipotec, a Lubrizol Company

PhD in Organic Chemistry from the University of Barcelona, she specialized in peptide and combinatorial chemistry. Joined Lipotec Group in 1999, being in charge of the discovery of new cosmetic active ingredients from 2004 to 2011. Since 2008 she also took responsibility for the New Business Development area in the company on a global basis. Dr. Carreño is the author of several patents in the field of new cosmetic actives.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

A Holistic Approach for an Improved Cutaneous Defense Barrier
Olga Laporta, Ph.D,. Nuria Garcia Ph.D., Cristina Carreño, Ph.D., Núria Almiñana, Ph.D., and Raquel Delgado, Ph.D.

Westernized lifestyle alters homeostasis of skin and makes it vulnerable, not only disrupting skin barrier function but also impacting on the balance of skin microbiota, leading to skin disorders and diseases.
To counteract this, a new active ingredient to reinforce skin barrier function which presents beneficial effects on skin microbiota was developed.

 
Ratan Chaudhuri Ph.D.
Founder, President and Chief Executive Officer
Sytheon Ltd

Dr. Ratan Chaudhuri is Founder, President & CEO, Sytheon Ltd, a developer and marketer of evidence-based cosmetic ingredients company. He has been in the cosmetics industry for well over 25 years. Before starting Sytheon Ltd. in 2006, Dr. Chaudhuri was Director of Cosmetics Research & Applications at EMD Chemicals Inc. (an affiliate of Merck Germany) and prior to that he was R&D Manager at International Specialty Products (ISP, currently Ashland Chemicals). Dr. Chaudhuri has been instrumental in conceptualizing and commercializing numerous products in the Cosmetics, Industrial, and Pharmaceutical markets and helped commercialize these products successfully. 

Dr. Chaudhuri is a frequent speaker at the national and international scientific meetings and also a reviewer for International J Cosmetic Science & Current Pharmaceutical Biotech. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, American Chemical Society and Personal Care Products Council.  Dr. Chaudhuri has seventy three issued US patents and numerous pending and foreign patents. He has published over eighty scientific papers and written several book chapter articles. His recent two chapter articles are: Hexylresorcinol: Providing Skin Benefits by Modulating Multiple Molecular Targets and Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound, Modulating Multiple Retinol and Non-retinol Targets, published in Cosmeceuticals & Active Cosmetics, 3rd Edition, Eds Sivamani, Jared Jagdeo, Peter Elsner & Howard I Maibach, 2015.


ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT


Delayed DNA Damage - How Significant this Pathway is for Skin Damage?
Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Krys Bojanowski and Parvesh Singh

Recently, Brash et al., have shown that DNA damage in the form of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (Delayed CPDs, dCPDs) continued several hours after UVA exposure in melanin containing murine melanocytes (Science, 347:842, 2015). However, this pathway was absent in fibroblasts and albino melanocytes which lack melanin pigment, suggesting enzymatic involvement. Present study was undertaken to understand the scope of this pathway and to select compound(s) to mitigate this pathway.

 
Manasi Chavan Ph.D.
Marketing Manager
BASF Personal Care

Manasi Chavan is the marketing manager for Face Care segment within the BASF Personal Care division in North America. 
Manasi has an MBA in General Management and Ph.D. in Biochemistry. She joined BASF in 2007 and has served in various roles such as R&D manager and Technical Service Team manager. She has made notable contributions in understanding various mechanisms of cellular biochemistry and  skin/hair cosmetic science . She has published several articles and patents in the area of Applied Biochemistry. 

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Biomechanical properties improved through dermis microRNA control

Skin ageing is the result of a complex interaction between biological, physical, and biochemical processes that cause changes in the skin. Regarding skin mechanical properties, alterations are mainly linked to collagen and elastic fibers disorganization. Besides, microRNAs are differentially expressed during cell ageing and could, in turn, contribute to age-related disorders. 

 
Rita Colwell Ph.D.
Global Science Officer and Chairman,
CosmosID, Inc.

Dr. Rita Colwell’s interests are focused on global infectious diseases, water, and health and Dr. Colwell developed an international network to address emerging infectious diseases and water issues, including safe drinking water for both the developed and developing world, in collaboration with Safe Water Network, headquartered in New York City.

Dr. Colwell served as the 11th Director of the National Science Foundation, 1998-2004.  In her capacity as NSF Director, she served as Co-chair of the Committee on Science of the National Science and Technology Council.  One of her major interests includes K-12 science and mathematics education, graduate science and engineering education and increased participation of women and minorities in science and engineering. 

Dr. Colwell served as President of the University of Maryland Biotechnology Institute and Professor of Microbiology and Biotechnology at the University Maryland.  She was also a member of the National Science Board from 1984 to 1990.

Dr. Colwell has been awarded 61 honorary degrees from institutions of higher education, including her Alma Mater, Purdue University and is the recipient of the 2005 Order of the Rising Sun, Gold and Silver Star, bestowed by the Emperor of Japan, the 2006 National Medal of Science awarded by the President of the United States, the 2010 Stockholm Water Prize awarded by the King of Sweden, and the 2017 Vannevar Bush Award from the National Science Foundation.  Dr. Colwell is an honorary member of the microbiological societies of the UK, Australia, France, India, Israel, Bangladesh, Czechoslovakia, and the U.S. and has held several honorary professorships, including the University of Queensland, Australia.  A geological site in Antarctica, Colwell Massif, has been named in recognition of her work in the Polar Regions.

Dr. Colwell has held many advisory positions in the U.S. Government, nonprofit science policy organizations, and private foundations, as well as in the international scientific research community. She is a nationally-respected scientist and educator, and has authored or co-authored 19 books and more than 800 scientific publications.  She produced the award-winning film, Invisible Seas, and has served on editorial boards of numerous scientific journals.

Dr. Colwell has previously served as Chairman of the Board of Governors of the American Academy of Microbiology and also as President of the American Association for the Advancement of Science, the Washington Academy of Sciences, the American Society for Microbiology, the Sigma Xi National Science Honorary Society, the International Union of Microbiological Societies, and the American Institute of Biological Sciences (AIBS). Dr. Colwell is a member of the U.S. National Academy of Sciences, the Royal Swedish Academy of Sciences, Stockholm, the Royal Society of Canada, the Royal Irish Academy, the Bangladesh Academy of Science, the Indian Academy of Science, the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, and the American Philosophical Society. 

Born in Beverly, Massachusetts, Dr. Colwell holds a B.S. in Bacteriology and an M.S. in Genetics, from Purdue University, and a Ph.D. in Oceanography from the University of Washington.

 
Marc Cornell
Vice President of Innovation
Englewood Lab

Marc Cornell is VP of Innovation at Englewood Lab in Englewood, New Jersey.  During his thirty year career he has worked in an R&D role for large (Merck, L’Oreal, Bristol Meyers Squibb, Union Carbide) and medium sized companies (Neostrata, ChemAid Labs, KV Pharmaceutical).  For the last twenty years he has worked primarily on the research and formulation development of “Cosmeceuticals” for various brands (Skinceuticals, Neostrata, Biomedic, Strivectin, and La Roche Posay).  In his current role he has researched K-Beauty skincare trends and developed numerous transformational textures which continue to be on trend for this surprising sensorial skin care category.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

K-Beauty: The science behind the transformational texture phenomenon

Cosmetics have been around forever. The skincare routine has been refined over the years but up until recently cosmetics have not been exclusively been positioned as “Fun”. The K-Beauty trend continues to sweep through the cosmetic world using social media and playful skin care application techniques. Underneath this fun surprising imagery driven cosmetic trend lies a host of applied scientific principles. We will explore K-beauty not through the lens of social media but more appropriately under the microscope of science (colloid and interface science, skin biology and physics). Join me for a hands on demonstration as we get hot and wet while looking behind the curtain on K-beauty trends from a scientist point of view.

 
Karine Cucumel Ph.D.
Senior manager, Evaluations and Sci Communication
Ashland Specialties France SAS

Dr. Karine Cucumel studied physiology and biochemistry at the university of Nice Sophia Antipolis in France where she received her Ph.D. in Pharmacology and Molecular Biology. In 2000, she joined personal care industry with specialties of histochemistry with image analysis to quantify various properties of skin; and works in the development and launches of functional ingredient for cosmetics. After over 17 years of experience in research and product development in personal care, Karine Cucumel holds a role of Senior manager for global evaluation and scientific communication. She’s leading several teams to deliver breakthrough innovation and support customer service for biology in Ashland Skin Research Center in Sophia Antipolis. Karine has authored and co-authored many peer-reviewed publications, many abstracts and holds international patents. She is a Member of Society Cosmetics Chemists, SID Society of Investigative dermatology and European society for Dermatological research.


ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

How Do Sensory Receptors Participate in Alerting Skin When Under Environmental Stresses?
Catherine Gondran PhD., Florian Labarrade MSC, Ludivine Mur MSC, Gregory Bressier MSC, Karine Cucumel PhD. and Nouha Domloge MD.

Receptors associated with light perception, taste and olfaction were recently discovered in the skin. In the present study, we investigated the localization of blue light-sensitive opsins and TAS2R38 in cultured keratinocytes and skin biopsies, and their variation following pollution (blue light or indoor/outdoor pollution).

 
Nava Dayan Ph.D.
Owner
Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C.

CEP COURSE INSTRUCTOR

Dr. Nava Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan L.L.C., a skin science and research consultancy located at NJ, USA, and serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries: dermal and transdermal.  Dr. Dayan offers consulting for product feasibility in skin care, composition of R&D plans covering efficacy and toxicology; planning, execution and data interpretation into claims of experiments during the processes of drug discovery as well as formulations, delivery for improved efficacy and attenuated toxicity.  Sample of expertise includes: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity and biota.  She also conducts customized education classes.  Dr. Dayan has 25 years of experience in the greater skin care segment, and have yielded more than 150 publications credits in numerous industry-respected journals and in four books.  She has been awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence.  

 
Giorgio Dell’Acqua Ph.D.
Technical Director
Akott Evolution

Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., is a consultant for the personal care industry. He is the Technical Director for Akott Evolution, an Italian multinational company specialized in developing and selling active ingredients from natural origin worldwide. Dr Dell’Acqua graduated from The University of Rome, Italy and worked for 15 years as an investigator in applied medical research in Universities such as Mount Sinai Medical School in New York and Harvard Medical School in Boston, USA. He has spent the last 16 years as an executive and cosmetic scientist in the personal care industry. He is specialized in skin and hair care ingredients, finished product development and technical marketing. He has covered multiple roles as a manager and director in different companies specialized in active ingredients and product development. He has helped bring more than 200 successful active ingredients and finished products to market and has authored more than 60 publications in medicine and cosmetic science. In the last 10 years, he has been writing and lecturing on natural cosmetic ingredients and helped sourcing, developing and bringing to market many natural ingredients. He is an award-winning speaker on natural ingredients and a regular columnist on sustainable cosmetic science. He is also the chair of the Scientific Affair Committee for the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists and its scientific blogger.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

A Natural Extract from Sprouts to Stimulate Hair Cycling and Vitality
Giorgio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., Letizia Puleo, Ph.D.

Hair quality and health deteriorate with environmental stress and aging. We developed a concentrated extract from organic Mung Bean and Red Clover sprouts (trade name Akosky Azuki) rich in polyphenols and secondary metabolites to stimulate hair cycling and vitality for a healthier hair.

 
Kelly Dobos
Technical Manager
Sun Chemical Corporation

Kelly A. Dobos is a cosmetic chemist with expertise in both skin care and color cosmetic formulation. She is the cosmetics technical manager at Sun Chemical Corporation where she is a key technical liaison with cosmetic research and development groups in North and South America. She graduated from Oberlin College with a Bachelors degree in chemistry and obtained a Master of Science in pharmaceutical sciences with an emphasis in cosmetic science from the James L Winkle College of Pharmacy (WCOP) at the University of Cincinnati. She is a recent recipient of the GOLD (Graduate of the Last Decade) Distinguished Alumni Award from the WCOP.

Kelly has served the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in numerous roles at the local and national level including Chapter Chair, Area II Director, National Treasurer, Executive Committee, Committee of Scientific Affairs (COSA), and Committee on Chapter Affairs (COCA), Constitution & Bylaws Committee, Nominations & Elections Committee, and the Editorial Review Committee for Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.  Kelly is the Society’s current Vice President-Elect and will assume the role of President in 2019.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Back to Basics: Fundamentals of Using Colorants in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

The incorporation of color in cosmetic and personal care products is part art and part science. What seems like a simple and fun exercise in pigment blending is reliant on a complex set of decisions. Factors such as the regulatory environment, cost, and stability as well as physical and chemical properties of each colorant all play an essential role in determining success in product development. The types of colorants permitted for use in cosmetics will be discussed in addition to best practices for selection and incorporation of colorants in formulation. Attention will be placed on the importance of pigment dispersion and effect pigments. The latest innovations in cosmetic colorants will also be presented.

 
Elaine Fuchs Ph.D.
Rebecca C. Lancefield Professor, Investigator Howard Hughes Medical Institute, Laboratory of Mammalian Cell Biology and Development
The Rockefeller University

HENRY MASO KEYNOTE AWARD LECTURER

Elaine Fuchs is renowned for her research in skin biology, its stem cells and associated genetic disorders, including cancers. She received her Ph.D. in Biochemistry from Princeton. After postdoctoral research at MIT, she joined the faculty at University of Chicago. In 2002, she relocated to Rockefeller University, where she is the Rebecca C. Lancefield professor of Mammalian Cell Biology and Development. She has been an Investigator of the Howard Hughes Medical Institute since 1988. Fuchs’ awards and honors include the Richard Lounsbery Award from the National Academy of Sciences, National Medal of Science, L’Oreal-UNESCO Award, Albany Prize in Medicine, March of Dimes Prize in Developmental Biology, Pasarow Award in Cancer, Pezcoller Award in Cancer Research, EB Wilson Award, and in 2017 received the Vanderbilt Prize. Fuchs is an elected member of the National Academy of Sciences, National Academy of Medicine (formerly Institute of Medicine), American Philosophical Society and European Molecular Biology Organization (foreign member). She holds honorary doctorates from NYU School of Medicine, University of Illinois, Albany Medical College and Harvard University. She is past-President of American Society for Cell Biology, The International Society for Stem Cell Research and the Harvey Society, and serves on the NYAS Board of Governors and NAM/IOM Council. She’s trained >25 graduate students and 100 postdocs, most now at academic universities and medical schools. 

 
Guy German Ph.D.
Assistant Professor
Binghamton University

Dr. Guy German received his combined Bachelors and Masters degree in Astrophysics from the University of Edinburgh in 1999, a Masters degree in Aerospace Dynamics, with a specialization in Aerodynamics, from Cranfield University in 2001, and his Ph.D. in Mechanical Engineering from the University of Edinburgh in 2009. Between 2001 and 2003, Dr. German worked as an aerodynamicist & trans-national aerodynamics task leader of blended wing aircraft at Airbus UK. Between 2003 and 2006, Dr. German worked as a senior engineering consultant for I.D.E.A.S Ltd. in Glasgow, Scotland.

Dr. German completed his postdoctoral training in the department of Mechanical Engineering and Materials Science at Yale University with Dr. Eric Dufresne between 2009 and 2012. In 2013, he joined the faculty at Binghamton University as an Assistant Professor in the Department of Biomedical Engineering. His research focuses on understanding and controlling the mechanics and function of soft biological tissues; in particular tissue barriers. Current projects funded both by industry and an NSF CAREER award are exploring the mechanopathology of bacterial skin infections, and the impact of environmental conditions ageing, cosmetic products, and UV photodamage on the composition, structure, and integrity of human skin.    

 
Steven Hanft
President
CONUSBAT Regulatory Services

CEP COURSE MODERATOR

Recognizing early the need for specialized internationalization services, Steven L. Hanft founded CONUS Business, Advice & Training (CONUSBAT) originally as a ‘business-link’ between the USA & Europe in Aachen, Germany in 1995. Today, CONUSBAT’s core services are in internationalization of regulatory affairs for the cosmetics, personal & consumer health care industries, fine chemicals processors and borderline areas thereto. As President of CONUSBAT, Steven’s role includes business development, administration, training, seminar organization, etc.

Focusing its expertise on the European Union’s frameworks for chemicals and cosmetics, CONUSBAT provides services towards all compliance necessities, e.g. Only Representative, Responsible Person, safety assessments, label reviews, notifications, etc.

Furthermore, CONUSBAT possesses a strategic global network of regulatory partnerships for its core service areas and performs the global compliance management. For the 6th successive year, Steven along with Dr. Annelie Struessmann will be the co-organizers for CONUSBAT’s In-Cosmetics Europe’s regulatory workshop (Paris, 2016).

Additionally, Steven is the General-Secretary of the ‘start-up’ association, Cosmetic Consultants Europe (CCE; www.cosmeticce.org), whose primary goal is to unite those European consultants working in the cosmetic field and to represent them towards EU regulators & industry. As an association, CCE is meant to represent & defend common interests in scientific, technical, regulatory, business and legal affairs.

Mr. Hanft is also the author of the recently published book, “Fachenglish für Laborberufe” (Technical English for Laboratory Staff), Wiley-VCH Publishers, Weinheim, Germany. The book provides technical English communication support for those in the pharma, chemical, medical, personal care, testing labs, food production industries.
Steven was born & raised in New York City, NY, USA. He possesses an M.A. degree in Biology from Columbia University, New York City, NY. As a former High School Biology Educator, he eventually took his science background into industry and was a former Food/Pharma Sales & Marketing Manager for a top NJ-based chemical processor and distributor, which was then known as Whittaker Clark & Daniels. Steven has decades of international business experience in both the USA and Europe.

 
Michael Isnardi Ph.D.
Senior Principal Research Scientist
SRI International

Dr. Michael Isnardi is a Senior Principal Research Scientist in the Center for Vision Technologies at the Princeton, NJ facility of SRI International, where he has worked since 1986.  His early work included development of the Advanced Compatible Television system, the DIRECTV system and Sarnoff’s Compliance Bitstreams product, which received a Technical Emmy Award in 1999.  Recent work includes salience-based compression, sensor modeling, image/video forensics and compressed sensing and deep learning technologies for imaging and video applications.  
 
Dr. Isnardi was elevated to IEEE Fellow in January, 2017.  While a staff member at Sarnoff Corporation (prior to its integration into SRI International), he received the David Sarnoff Award, the IEEE Consumer Electronics Society Third Millennium Medal and the Marconi Young Scientist Award.  His professional memberships include SMPTE, IEEE, INCITS, OSA and SPIE.  He serves on several awards committees for the IEEE Consumer Electronics Society and on the Technical Program Committee for the International Conference on Consumer Electronics.   He has given numerous papers and tutorials on digital television at industry events.
 
Dr. Isnardi is a graduate of the Media Lab at MIT.  He has published over 25 papers and holds 39 U.S. patents.  He lives with his wife and four daughters in Plainsboro, NJ.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Emerging Trends for Cosmetic Applications on Personal Devices

The proliferation of portable personal devices, such as smartphones and tablets, presents major opportunities for the cosmetics industry. In this discussion, we will touch upon the emerging trends in technologies embedded in personal devices that will allow consumers to assess, monitor and enhance their appearance.  Such trends include: image sensors with enhanced resolution and spectral response; multiple cameras for depth estimation; and enhanced processing power to build 3D models of the human face and render them under different lighting conditions. The recent availability of tools to port deep neural nets to personal devices will enable detection of facial features and human emotions in real time.
 
By intelligently leveraging several key portable device capabilities—including controlled illumination, pose estimation, nearfield image capture and fast processing—our smartphones and tablets can be transformed into powerful measurement instruments fully capable of producing actionable results at a fraction of the cost of their laboratory counterparts. For example, apps transforming our handheld devices into colorimeters—certainly of interest to cosmeticians and skin care professionals—can be readily found both in App Stores and from some cosmetics vendors themselves. Our talk will discuss several types of appearance measurement apps available either now or in the near future, and will include a demo of a focused-optimized macro lens app which operates using only those capabilities found in all modern smartphones.

 
Daniel Japiassú
Director and Chief Executive Officer
YDreams Global

Daniel is the CEO of YDreams Global, a public company from Canada. Working with innovation and digital technologies for over 16 years, the company delivers virtual and augmented reality, immersive experiences and ubiquitous computing.

YDreams Global works as a partner for companies and brands to reframe their strategy through relevant human-centered ventures that integrates digital experience with the physical presence and venues. YDreams Global anticipates future challenges and connects them with the needs of the market, building innovative concepts and delivering them with international excellence.
 
Vivek Joshi Ph.D.
Applications and Market Adoption Manager
MilliporeSigma

Vivek Joshi, Ph.D. is an Applications and Market Adoption Manager at MilliporeSigma, developing new products and applications for products that span analytical workflows, molecular and protein science workflows and cell culture workflows. Prior to joining EMD Millipore, Dr. Joshi worked on high throughput LC‐MS applications at ArQule. Dr. Joshi’s doctoral research focused on molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs), and he completed postdoctoral studies of MIPs and capillary electrochromatography. Recently, Dr. Joshi was the presenter of a sample preparation module as part of the Drug Dissolution Training offered by the United States Pharmacopeia (USP).

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Strat-M membrane, a synthetic diffusion model for study of transdermal and topical formulations

To provide data on applicability of a synthetic membrane for in-vitro diffusion studies in transdermal / topical arena in place of human or animal skin as a model. Applicability of synthetic membrane in formulation rank ordering is discussed. Advantages and disadvantages of biological models used in diffusion studies are also discussed.

 
Marty Kurylowicz Ph.D.
Research and Development Manager
Mirexus Biotechnologies Inc

Dr. Kurylowicz earned his B.Sc. and M.Sc. in Physics at the University of British Columbia, holds a Ph.D. in Biochemistry from the University of Toronto, and completed three post-doctoral fellowships in Biophysics specializing in biological polymers and nanomaterials.  He has extensive experience with Atomic Force Microscopy for nano-characterization and force spectroscopy of biological surfaces and nanoparticle films.  His university-based research focused on protein biophysics and developing practical applications for ultra-thin polysaccharide coatings of biological surfaces.  He is now R&D Manager at Mirexus Biotechnologies Inc., directing fundamental research and developing commercial applications of phytoglycogen nanoparticles in the food, nutraceutical and personal care sectors.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Phytoglycogen: A Superb Moisturizer and Powerful Anti-Aging Ingredient

Marty Kurylowicz PhD, Mirexus Biotechnologies Inc., Guelph Ontario Canada
Carley Miki MSc, Mirexus Biotechnologies Inc., Guelph Ontario Canada
Anton Korenevski PhD, Mirexus Biotechnologies Inc., Guelph Ontario Canada

Phytoglycogen (PG) is an emerging example of safe and natural nanomaterials which can bring the advantages of nanotechnology to human applications in personal care, nutraceuticals and pharmaceuticals.  PG is a naturally occurring polysaccharide that can be extracted from a number of plants including non-GMO sweet corn. It is a dense, highly branched polymer of glucose which forms nanoparticles ~40 nm in diameter. As a botanical extract it is very pure, environmentally friendly, sustainable, edible, digestible and biodegradeable – a high performance yet all-natural ingredient in keeping with the demands of consumers today.  PG is chemically identical to the glycogen found in the tissues of all animals (including humans), and is recognized by the body as a source of stored chemical energy which affects cellular metabolism.  In this report we demonstrate that PG is an excellent moisturizer and anti-aging ingredient.  

 
Estelle Loing Ph.D.
Global R&D Director
IFF-Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

Dr. Estelle Loing received her Ph.D degree in 1998 in cellular biology at Pasteur Institute in France and at Tübingen University in Germany after completing research work on peptides and lipopeptides delivery into cells for the modulation of specific immune response (HIV, HCV models). 

In 2001, she completed a Master degree in management & marketing of biotechnology companies.
Dr. Estelle Loing spent the last decade working for 2 biotechnologies and 1 major company in the development of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical active ingredients. She joined Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, part of IFF in 2008 as the Research and Development Global Director.

Since the beginning of her career, Dr. Loing wrote more than 30 scientific publications in peer review journals and published several patents.  As of today, Estelle has significantly contributed to the marketing of over twenty active and functional ingredients.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Innovative hair care biomimetic peptide: a promising solution to fight gray hair
Joan Attia, Magali Borel, Johanna Bakala, Stéphanie Almeida, Elian Lati, Laurence Michel, Jean-Christophe Choulot, Michel Hocquaux, Estelle Loing

Premature canitie and graying hair are phenomenon directly linked to a melanin lack in the hair bulb but also by the accumulation of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) in hair follicles. To promote hair pigmentation and counteract the graying hair process, a new biomimetic peptide (palmitoyl tetrapepitde-20) of the α-MSH was developed

 
Philip Ludwig
Technical Account Manager
BASF Beauty Care Solutions

Philip Ludwig is the Technical Account Manager for Personal Care actives in North America.  Mr. Ludwig works with BASF R&D and customers to provide new skin care actives.  From exciting botanicals to novel microbial ferments to synthetic chemistries, Mr. Ludwig utilizes the strength of BASF’s science to provide efficacious solutions for customers.  Mr. Ludwig has written multiple patents and over a dozen research articles relating to new personal care ingredients.  He has been a featured speaker at over a dozen industry events and seminars.  In his previous role, his last three products have won five international awards at PCHi and In-Cosmetics for being either a best new ingredient or most innovative.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Novel 3D human ex vivo sebaceous gland model to study skin lipid metabolism and modulations
M. Chavan, P. Ludwig, N. Forraz, AF De Bengy, L. Danoux, N. Berthelemy, S. Cadau, V. Andre, S. Pain, C. McGuckin

We developed a new 3D ex vivo model based on sebocyte maturation, to study the function of the sebaceous gland and particularly its maintenance. 

 
Dzmitry Malevich Ph.D.
Research Manager
Advonex International

Dzmitry Malevich is responsible for guiding the process development at Advonex International. He has been instrumental in the development of our electrochemical technologies to synthesize bio-based hydrocarbons. Before joining Advonex, he worked at Queen’s-RMC Fuel Cell Research Centre in Kingston, carrying out research on electrochemical catalysts for low-temperature fuel cells.
 
Dzmitry also worked at the Electrochemical Technology Centre at the University of Guelph. Before that, Dzmitry held a fellowship from the Royal Society and worked at the University of Southampton, where he was an Academic Visitor at the Southampton Electrochemistry Group. 
 
Dzmitry is a co-inventor on the Advonex patents and obtained his Ph.D. in Chemistry from the Belarusian State University in Minsk and held a faculty position at the Belarusian State Technological University.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Replacing petroleum-based ingredients with plant-based (hydrocarbon) alternatives: Renewable paraffin waxes, emollients, petrolatum, and mineral oil.
Dzmitry Malevich

Consumers are demanding more healthful and sustainable cosmetics and personal care products that utilize plant-based, non-petroleum, natural ingredients.  However, petroleum-based ingredients are used because, until now, there has been no renewable, plant-based substitutes for paraffin wax, mineral oil, petrolatum and other hydrocarbons. Advonex International has developed platform technology that can efficiently and economically produce hydrocarbons of interest to the cosmetics and personal care industry from organic feedstock.

 
Jennifer Marsh Ph.D.
Research Fellow, Beauty Technology Division
P&G Beauty

Dr. Jennifer Marsh has been working with P&G for 21 years in a variety of roles including consumer research, product development and technology development. The majority of her early career was spent working as a technologist in hair color during which time she developed new damage technologies for Clairol Nice N Easy Brand and a new oxidant system launched in 2008 as Nice N Easy Perfect 10. For the past 10 years she has been part of the Beauty Technology Division working on hair color and hair care technologies including new actives for Pantene and other hair care brands. Dr. Marsh is passionate about building fundamental technical models and translating these insights into new technologies and technical product stories.

Dr. Marsh has published 20 papers in the area of hair structure science and hair color and presented work at many external conferences. She holds more than 30 patents.

Her specific areas of expertise include Hair structure understanding, Bleach and oxidative chemistry and dye kinetics.

Dr. Marsh's academic qualifications include: PhD, Synthetic Inorganic Chemistry, Wolfson College, University of Oxford. Doctoral thesis title: “Chemistry of gold.” and (1st Class), Chemistry, Magdalen College, University of Oxford.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Measuring Hair Damage & Strategies to Deliver Healthy Hair
Jennifer Marsh, The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, USA
Matthew Thompson, Arto Maata, Tim Hawkins, Durham University, UK

Healthy hair is a key need for women globally – hair that is strong, has shine, is soft to touch and retains its style through the day. However, 80% of women globally claim to have at least some level of hair damage and > 50% of women are either very concerned or extremely concerned . There are multiple external insults that contribute to this perceived damage including hair colorants, UV exposure and heated implements. As we understand in more detail how these insults are changing hair structure and chemistry we can identify strategies to reduce this damage. This presentation will share some of our latest research to measure and visualize hair damage via advanced microscopy modalities such as confocal microscopy and fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy (FLIM) and technologies developed to reduce this damage.
 
Bart Maxon
Senior Industry Specialist
Dow Chemical Company – Home & Personal Care (Dow Corning Corporation)

Mr. Maxon is currently the Senior Industry Specialist at Dow Chemical Company – Home & Personal Care (Dow Corning Corporation) since 1996. His prior experience includes: Applications Development & Lab Manager at Dendritech, Inc., Technical Product Development Manager/Assistant Scientist at Abbott Laboratories, Diagnostics Division and Product Development Chemist at McIntyre Group LTD. 

Educational Background: BS from Northeastern Illinois University (Major: Chemistry), BS from Central Michigan University (Major: Biology)

Bart has been involved in the Society of Cosmetics as an Area II Director (2014-2016), SCC Committee on Chapter Affairs (COCA, 2013-2016), Michigan Chapter Chair (2013).

His publications include: “Formulating Skin Care Products with Silicones:  Approaches & Strategies”, Apply Topically: A Practical Guide to Formulating Topical Applications, Allured Publishing Corp, IL, pp 59-114 (2013), 29th IFSCC Posters (2016) “Strategies for Increased Compliance of Sunscreen Use through Reduced Whitening in Aqueous Emulsions” and “Implementing a Flexible Framework for Quality in an Evolving Global Regulatory Environment: A Suppliers’ Perspective”, 2012 SCC Scientific Seminar Poster; “Visual Impressions: Dow Corning® Silicones for Enhanced Skin Appearance, 23rd IFSCC Congress Poster (2004); “New Silicone Film-Forming Technologies for Topical Delivery and Beyond.

Other Professional Affiliations: Fairleigh Dickinson Cosmetic Science and University of Toledo:  guest lecturer (“Silicones in Beauty Care, Practical Guide for Formulating with Silicones”) for these Master’s Degree programs in Cosmetic Science (March, 2014-2016)

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Formulating Skin Care Products with Silicones: Approaches and Strategies
Bart Maxon, Evan Waddell

This is a basic overview of silicone technologies with a focus on skin care applications and will include:

  • Brief introduction to silicone chemistry, nomenclature, properties and key benefits related to skin care applications.
  • Specific focus on strategies for formulating with silicones in specific skincare categories:  moisturizers (hand and body lotions), facial care (anti-aging), color cosmetics, sun protection, and skin cleansers/body washes.
  • Silicone processing and cleaning considerations.
  • Hands-on comparison of various silicone technologies to familiarize participants with differences.  
It is intended to put the participant in the mindset of a cosmetic chemist responsible for formulating skin care products and walk them through the thought process of how to select specific silicones for a given application.  It will provide starting points and specific strategies for achieving consumer perceived benefits in different skin care product categories as well as detailed processing and cleaning considerations for silicones.

 
Roger McMullen Ph.D.
Principal Scientist
Ashland Specialties Ingredients

Roger has over 20 years of experience in the personal care industry with specialties in optics, imaging, and spectroscopy of hair and skin. Currently, he is Principal Scientist in the Material Science department at Ashland Specialty Ingredients G.P.

Dr. McMullen received a B.S. in Chemistry from Saint Vincent College and completed his Ph.D. in Biophysical Chemistry at Seton Hall University with Professor Stephen P. Kelty. In addition, Roger worked under the mentorship of Dr. Janusz Jachowicz at International Specialty Products for approximately 10 years.

Roger actively engages and participates in educational activities in the personal care industry. Every year he instructs courses in Hair Science at TRI-Princeton and every two years he teaches a course that he designed on Imaging Technologies and Image Analysis Techniques for Personal Care at the SCC national office. He also teaches the Basic Hair Science course in the continuing education program of the SCC.

In addition to instructing continuing education courses, Roger is an Adjunct Professor at Fairleigh Dickinson University and teaches Biochemistry to students pursuing M.S. degrees in Cosmetic Science and Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Most of his students work for finished goods manufacturers and specialty chemical suppliers, and often go on to have very successful careers in industry.

Prior to pursuing a career in science, Roger served in the U.S. Navy for four years on board the USS YORKTOWN (CG 48), a guided missile cruiser—one of the first ships with the Aegis Combat System.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Imaging Hair: Understanding Phenomena at the Microscopic and Macroscopic Level

Roger L. McMullen, Guojin Zhang†, William Thompson, and Timothy Gillece

Whether examining a hair fiber assembly, for example in the case of a whole head of hair, or investigating the influence of treatments or environmental insults in a single fiber, imaging techniques are indispensable tools to help us visualize and also quantify various phenomena in hair.

 
Laura Muollo Ph.D.
Director, Life Sciences R&D
The Warner Babcock Institute for Green Chemistry, LLC

Dr. Laura Muollo joined the Warner Babcock Institute in 2008. Her areas of specialization include synthetic organic and polymer chemistry. Dr. Muollo holds a B.S. in Chemistry from Stonehill College and a M.S. and Ph.D. in Organic Chemistry with a Green Chemistry Option from the University of Massachusetts, Lowell. Dr. Muollo was the recipient of the Outstanding Graduate Student in Chemistry Award in 2008, as well as a National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellowship in 2006. She is an author on papers in the area of photo-reactive polymeric materials as well as in chemical education.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Green Chemistry Innovations through the Lens of the Biological World

Nature creates materials of such exquisite structural complexity and diversity that humans may never be able to mimic them. Nature’s elegance is even more astounding when one considers the fact that most chemistry in the biological world is carried out at ambient temperature and pressure using water, for the most part, as its reaction medium.  For society to become truly sustainable, the way we manufacture, use and repurpose materials must change dramatically. This presentation will describe John Warner’s entropic considerations of materials design and illustrate their application through recent R&D examples from the Warner Babcock Institute for Green Chemistry. Examples from cosmetics, personal care, and textiles will be included.

 
Joanne Nikitakis
Director of Cosmetic Chemistry
Personal Care Products Council

Joanne Nikitakis is a member of the science team at the Personal Care Products Council as the Director of Cosmetic Chemistry.  In her role, she serves as the staff liaison for the Council’s Quality Assurance Committee and International Cosmetic Ingredient Nomenclature Committee, and provides technical support for activities associated with these Committees. For more than 25 years, Joanne has been involved with the development of the INCI nomenclature program and publication of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook in which she serves as principal editor. Joanne has also served as editor of the Council’s Quality Assurance Guidelines, and the Compendium of Cosmetic Ingredient Composition.

Ms. Nikitakis received her B.S. degree in Chemistry from the University of Mary Washington in Fredericksburg, Virginia, and M.S. in Pharmaceutical Sciences from the University of Cincinnati, College of Pharmacy in Cincinnati, Ohio.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

The INCI Nomenclature Process

INCI stands for International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredients and is a globally recognized nomenclature system for ingredients used in cosmetic products around the world.  In many regions, INCI names are required for the ingredient labeling of cosmetics and personal care products.  This presentation will explain the INCI application process and publication of INCI names, along with examples for some of the science-based conventions that have emerged to facilitate the creation of this unique and informative naming system.

 
Frederic Nunzi Ph.D., ERT
Doctor in Cell Biology and Microbiology
IDEA Tests Group

Frederic NUNZI holds a PhD in Cell Biology and Microbiology obtained in 1993 at the University of Provence in Marseille.

After having worked in the field of rapid and industrial microbiology during 5 years, then that of the clinical diagnostic for 4 years, Frederic is the head of IDEA Lab, the IDEA TESTS Group company dedicated to in vitro tests and microbiology, since 2005.

He has overseen the implementation of GLP within IDEA Lab, along with the development of in vitro regulatory toxicology tests, in particular genetic toxicology and sensitization.

As a Eurotox expert, Frederic is advising the IDEA TESTS Group customers for more than 12 years in the selection and interpretation of in vitro tests carried out on cosmetic products (finished products and ingredients).


ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

In vitro tests strategy for sensitization risk assessment of cosmetics
Frederic Nunzi, Dominique Ostinet, Benoit Latouche

Skin sensitization tests are one of the current hot topics in the world of cosmetic ingredients evaluation. The recent development of various in vitro methods based on AOP concept leads to answer the following question: what strategy will be the best for the sensitization risk assessment?

As an active actor that proposes solution for cosmetics industries since many years, the IDEA Lab offers its thinking.

 

 
Prof. Dr. Greg O’Neil
Associate Professor in the Department of Chemistry
Western Washington University

Greg O’Neil is an associate professor in the Department of Chemistry at Western Washington University. His research is focused primarily on synthesizing biologically and environmentally compelling natural products. More recently this work has also led him to become involved in certain biofuel-related research supported by an NSF-CAREER grant. He teaches organic chemistry as well as several advanced electives (Natural Products Chemistry, Organic Reactions, Organic Spectroscopy and Biofuels) through the chemistry department and Institute for Energy Studies at WWU. He was recently honored with a Henry Dreyfus Teacher Scholar Award. The award is based on accomplishment in scholarly research with undergraduates, as well as a compelling commitment to teaching. 

O’Neil received his B.S degree in chemistry from Boston College and a Ph.D. in organic chemistry from the University of Colorado, Boulder. He was then an Alexander-von-Humboldt Postdoctoral Fellow at the Max-Planck Institut für Kohlenforschung before joining the faculty at WWU. 


ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Unique but Abundant Algal Lipids as New Ingredients for Greener Cosmetic Formulations

Gregory W. O’Neil, Ph.D.; Department of Chemistry, Western Washington University, Bellingham, WA
Christopher M. Reddy, Ph.D.; Department of Marine Chemistry & Geochemistry, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA

This research is aimed at evaluating the potential of a unique suite of algal lipids known as long-chain alkenones for cosmetic and other personal care applications. Alkenones are biosynthesized in large quantities (up to 20% of cell carbon) by certain haptophyte algae, including the industrially grown marine microalgae Isochrysis. Combined with their unique structures (e.g. very long hydrocarbon chains (35-40 carbons)), these waxy substances represent a novel platform for creating new "natural", "green", and sustainable product lines.


 
Joseph Pavlichko
Owner and Consultant
PCT Consulting, LLC

Mr. Pavlichko is currently owner and consultant of PCT Consulting, LLC. Prior to retiring in 2015 after 42 years in the personal care industry, Mr. Pavlichko held various management positions at Amerchol, Union Carbide, and Dow Chemical.  He is credited with 7 U.S. Patents and has authored over 30 technical articles.  He has presented over 50 technical podium presentations at numerous SCC, IFSCC, SCS, In-Cosmetics, HBA and other global scientific venues.  During his career he developed expertise in the areas of organic synthesis, formulation development, cross-functional team leadership, project management, product branding, business development, strategic planning, marketing strategy, customer service, sales, and executive management.  

Mr. Pavlichko was VP Marketing at Croda Inc. responsible for developing marketing collateral and strategic marketing programs in the US as well as Technology Development Director evaluating new technology acquisition candidates.  He has held numerous positions at both the Chapter and National levels of the SCC and the IFSCC.  He was elected Fellow and Emeritus status of the SCC and was the recipient of the SCC Merit Award.  He served as President of the SCC in 2000 and a member of IFSCC presidium representing for 8 years before serving as IFSCC President in 2004.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

The Role of Cosmetics in Society - An Historical Marketing Perspective

The presentation will review the role cosmetics play in society from the 1920's to present day from the perspective of actual historical print marketing and advertising claims. This perspective will illustrate the evolution of "vanity", advertising claims in the 20th century "technology", "claims support" and "cosmeceutical" driven claims of today's market. The discussion will also include insight into the role of cosmetics for social goodness and conclude with considerations and outlook toward possible future claims in the cosmetic market.

 
Karl Popp
President
KPopp Consulting LLC

CEP COURSE SPEAKER

Karl Popp founded KPopp Consulting, LLC in 2010 as a consulting firm providing services to pharmaceutical, cosmetic and allied industries. He also is a licensed pharmacist.

From 1989 to 2008 he was associated with Stiefel Laboratories as Director of Product Development, and later as Senior Director of Special Projects coordinating external manufacturing, global research activities, and managing the corporation’s intellectual property estate. Prior to joining Stiefel in 1989, he was a Scientist and Project Manager for the Sterling-Winthrop Research Group. During his career he has been responsible for the development of products that have generated over $2 billion in sales. Karl also is Vice President of Pharmapotheca A, LLC, a company focused on developing and commercializing pharmaceutical technologies for the treatment of Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorders (ADHD) in adults and children.
He earned his B. S. in Pharmacy from the Albany College of Pharmacy, an M.B.A. from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute and is licensed to practice pharmacy in NY. Karl is a past President of the U.S. Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1999) and elected a fellow to the Society in 2002.

He has been active in the SCC in coordinating local educational seminars, served on the National Committee on Scientific Affairs and as the Society’s President in 1999 and was a past Chair of the New England Chapter. Karl was elected a Fellow of the Society in 2002 and Emeritus Member in 2015.

He is an inventor, an author and a scientist. His interests encompass topical, oral, inhalation, and drug delivery dosage forms in addition to various therapeutic categories. During his over 40 years in the industry, Karl Popp has lectured around the globe on new product development activities including GMPs, regulatory strategies, product pipeline efforts, process validation, product life cycle management, and management of intellectual property.

 
Stanley Qi Ph.D.
Assistant Professor Departments of Bio-engineering Department of Chemical and Systems Biology Faculty member, ChEM-H
Stanford University

FRONTIERS OF SCIENCE AWARD LECTURER

Dr. Lei (Stanley) Qi is an Assistant Professor of Bioengineering and a faculty member in the School of Medicine and ChEM-H at Stanford University, California. He is an early developer of the CRISPR technology for gene editing, and a major inventor of the CRISPR interference (CRISPRi) for non-editing genome regulation. He has developed and pioneered a number of other CRISPR-based technologies, which lead to broad applications including epigenetic regulation of the cellular function, cytogenetic diagnosis, and cell-based immunotherapies. He obtained B.S. in Physics and Math from Tsinghua University, China, and Ph.D. in Bioengineering from the University of California, Berkeley, working with Prof. Steven Chu and then Dr. Jennifer Doudna. He worked as a Systems Biology Faculty Fellow in the University of California, San Francisco (UCSF), and joined Stanford Bioengineering in 2014. His work has awarded him many rewards, including NIH Director’s Early Independence Award, David Morgenthaler Faculty Fellow, Pew Biomedical Scholar, and Alfred. P. Sloan Fellow. His current research focuses on developing better genome editing/regulation technologies with broad applications to immunotherapy and regenerative medicine. 

 

 
Uwe Rossow
Managing Director
CCR GmbH & Co. KG

CEP COURSE SPEAKER

Dr. Uwe Rossow is managing director of CCR GmbH & Co. KG, a consultant company providing services in safety and regulatory affairs for cosmetic products, personal care products, pharmaceuticals as well as for raw materials. Focusing on the European Union´s framework for cosmetic products Dr. Rossow offers services on safety assessments, regulatory guidance, toxicology, and compliance for his clients. In addition he acts as an independent expert in court cases. He is member of several national and international scientific expert panels like the European trade association Cosmetics Europe, the German scientific association DGK or the German trade association IKW. He is expert speaker at the DGK/IKW Advanced training courses “Basics for the safety assessment of cosmetics” as well as at various scientific meetings and symposia organized by DGK, IKW working groups or scientific organizations like CVUA Karlsruhe, Akademie Fresenius, IIR or Euroforum. From 2010 to 2012 Uwe was member of the German delegation in the Annex I working group on behalf of the European Commission.

Dr. Rossow is co-author of the scientific book “EG-Kosmetikverordnung 1223/2009” (European Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009) published by the German Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH, of 3 reference books “Kosmetik“ for professional schools and vocational schools published by the German Cornelsen-Verlag as well as of scientific articles published by various DGK working groups.

Uwe possess a diploma and PhD in Microbiology from the RWTH Aachen. He is a DGK certified safety assessor and a Publicly Appointed and Sworn Expert by the Chamber of Commerce Aachen. He worked in various executive positions in SMEs (BABOR Cosmetics) and global companies (Dalli Werke GmbH & Co. KG, Johnson & Johnson GmbH). In 2003 Uwe founded the company Cosmetic Consulting Rossow where he acted in parallel as an independent expert besides his main job in the industry. In 2015 he founded his recent consultant company, CCR GmbH & Co. KG and became a full time external consultant. Uwe has a more than 20 years professional experience in the cosmetic industry. He works since more than 15 years as certified Safety Assessor and has more than 9 years working experience as Publicly Appointed and Sworn Expert in court cases.

 
Edward V. Sargent MPH, Ph.D., DABT
Managing Director
EV Sargent LLC

Dr. Sargent is Managing Director of EV Sargent LLC a limited liability company organized in February 2007 in the State of Florida to provide strategic consultation and service in occupational and environmental toxicology, risk assessment and regulatory compliance. Previously Dr. Sargent was the Senior Director of Toxicology at Merck & Co., Inc.

Dr. Sargent is the author of over 150 papers, book chapters and presentations on occupational and environmental toxicology and risk assessment. He has conducted risk assessments of over 600 pharmaceutical compounds resulting in the establishment of safety data sheets, occupational exposure limits and/or acceptable daily exposures. Dr. Sargent has been Past President of the Mid Atlantic Chapter of the Society of Toxicology, Member of the Board of Directors of the American Board of Toxicology and of the Risk Assessment Specialty Section of the Society of Toxicology and is currently a Member of the American Conference of Governmental Hygienists Threshold Limit Value Committee. Dr. Sargent holds a BA in Biology from the University of Connecticut, an MPH from Yale University School of Public Health, a PhD in Toxicology from New York University and is a Diplomate of the American Board of Toxicology.

 
Arvind Shah
Senior Chemist R & D - Personal Care Division
Micro Powders, Inc

Current status: (1) Micro Powders, Inc. R & D Laboratory, Sr. Research PC Technical Coordinator since March 2015 (2) Adjunct Professor at Long Island University, Purchase Campus. Purchase, NY  10577.

Cosmetic arena Experience: Worked in Research & Development Laboratory of Cosmetic companies e.g.  Revlon, P & G & Avon for total of 30 Years in different areas of cosmetic formulations. Lead various R & D team includes Technology Sharing team as well as Emerging Color Products team to deliver first to market cosmetic products.  Manage Technician & Chemist at R & D. Worked very closely with Global Marketing, Manufacturing, Pilot process, Innovative Packaging, Regulatory, Clinical, Microbiology, Analytical, Toxicology, Cell biology and In-vitro testing departments to launch successful product.  Recipient of Avon’s most prestigious Chairman Award. Holds 14 Granted US patents include all forms of cosmetic products. This includes Color, Non-Color & personal care formulations.

Education: M.A. Cosmetic Science (Fairleigh Dickinson University, NJ, USA), M S.  Organic Chemistry (M S University, India), B.S. Chemistry (M S University, India)

Professional Affiliation: (1) Member of Society of Cosmetic Chemists since 1981 & Fellow since 2014 (2) Board member of Committee of Scientific Affairs (COSA) of Society of cosmetic chemist from 2015-2017(3) Adjunct Professor at the Long Island University (LIU) Purchase Campus, Purchase, NY  10577 since 2012.     

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Learnings of Fundamental Properties of the fine powders in cosmetics

Do all cosmetic fine powders look the same? Do they feel the same when you touch them? Do these questions matter?  YES they do. A frequently overlooked concept is the type of powders properties used in cosmetics. About 50% of the cosmetic chemists do not think in depth about these cosmetics fine powders.

 
Ujjwal Sinha Ph.D.
Founder and Chief Executive Officer
Management Foresight

Dr. Sinha is the founder of Management Foresight, and a Strategy and Analytics expert specializing in revenue generation and building profitability through analytics driven operational excellence. The Gamma Analytics AI Suite from Management Foresight is largely based on some AI techniques he had developed while he was at MIT. 

Before Management Foresight, Ujjwal was the Vice President of Enterprise BI and Analytics at Target Corporation, Ujjwal led a 500+ person analytics team that was responsible for all BI and Analytics functions – predictive analytics, optimization, data sciences, AI, big data, data quality, business intelligence and reporting across all business functions for the entire company globally. 

As a Vice President at Salesforce.com, a premier cloud computing company, Ujjwal managed a $100M P&L for the Strategic Services business, instilling operational excellence into business operations.

Prior to this, Ujjwal was a Director at Microsoft, where he pioneered Microsoft’s first ever marketing campaign measurement, analytics and ROI system. Ujjwal also ran Direct-To-Consumer Product Management for Windows, where he was responsible for a $60M P&L for the Windows Anytime Upgrade business and managed Digital Distribution, Customer Support, Windows trust and loyalty, and online tools and services. 

Earlier, Ujjwal ran a startup funded by Zero Stage Capital, in the cloud based marketing analytics and business intelligence space for the retail industry. In his association with Zero Stage Capital, he advised them on several new deals as well as additional investment requests for existing portfolio companies. 

Ujjwal was also a strategy consultant with McKinsey and Co advising CEOs and senior management of over a dozen Fortune 500 companies on their organic and inorganic growth strategies. Ujjwal holds a PhD and Masters in Engineering from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and a Bachelor’s from the Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi. 

Outside of work, Ujjwal enjoys music, yoga, hiking, and spending time with his 15 year old twin boys.

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

Analytics Case Studies from the Retail/Consumer Sectors 
Dr. Ujjwal Sinha, Founder and CEO, Management Foresight

These days, most companies in the corporate world realize the importance of data-analytics/machine-learning/AI, and many have made significant investments in recent years. However, how do you truly realize the full value of your investments? How can data analytics shape how businesses are run going forward? In this discussion, we will touch upon how you connect the dots between your business problems and data analytics. We will explore this topic with the help of four case studies where analytics was used to produce superior business results: Voice of the Customer, Loyalty Measurement, Marketing Mix Optimization, and Customer Churn. We will also touch upon talent requirements for companies in the B2C sectors to succeed in the world of data analytics.

 
Annelie Struessmann
Technical Regulatory Director
CONUSBAT Regulatory Services

CEP COURSE SPEAKER

Dr. Annelie Struessmann is Technical Regulatory Director with CONUSBAT, a provider of internationalization services in regulatory affairs for the cosmetics, personal care, consumer health products, fine chemicals, and borderline industries. In 2003, she joined the firm and, based on several years of international industry experience, she established the service area for regulatory affairs with CONUSBAT.

Focusing on the European regulatory frameworks for cosmetic products and for chemicals (REACH), she is servicing industry clients in providing compliance strategies, safety assessments, registrations, notifications, regulatory representations, i.e, REACH Only Representative (OR), Cosmetic Products Responsible Person (RP). Also, she has and publishes with various recognized journals in her area of expertise and provides regulatory workshops on a worldwide scale.

 

 

Before joining CONUSBAT she worked in various managerial functions at international locations of global companies, such as IFF, Akzo Nobel, Rewo Chemicals (now Evonik) & DHW Deutsche Hydrierwerke GmbH Rodleben. Her educational background includes a Masters Degree in Chemistry & a Bachelor Science (BS degree) in Food Chemistry from the Technical University RWTH Aachen, Germany. Additionally, she received a Doctorate in Biopolymer Chemistry from the German Wool Research Institute (DWI) in Aachen, working on projects for Schwarzkopf/Germany & Clairol/Stamford-USA. From Clairol (now P&G), Stamford, Ct. USA she was awarded the company’s prestigious Gelb Foundation Fellowship.

 
Roseann Termini Esq.
Food and Drug Law Attorney

Roseann B. Termini, B.S., Ed. M., J.D. has extensive experience in food, drug, medical devices, personal care, dietary supplement and veterinary products regulation. Ms. Termini recently published a new comprehensive edition both in print and E-book formats of Food and Drug Law: Federal Regulation of Drugs, Biologics, Medical Devices, Foods, Dietary Supplements, Personal Care, Veterinary and Tobacco Products (2017). She published the new edition because of evolving law, novel cases and latest regulations. Professional considerations, ethical issues, enforcement, criminal corporate liability and politics are covered. Additionally, she published an E-book that mirrors the print book as well as 12 stand-alone separate subject specific E-books.

Frequently, Ms. Termini is a featured speaker at international and national conferences including the Central Atlantic Association of Food and Drug Law Officials, the Pennsylvania Bar Institute and the Food and Drug Law Institute. She is in charge of an “All Matters FDA” program at Delaware Law, Widener University that addresses “hot topics” such as the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act, opioids, biosimilars, intended use, tobacco regulation, e-cigarettes and dietary supplement enforcement. Presentations have included: Botox, Opioids, Personal Care Product Classification, Medical Marijuana, Right to Try, Criminal Enforcement, Who Really Regulates Your Pizza, Are “Smart Labels” Really Smart, Terminology such as Healthy and Natural, and regulations under the Food Safety and Modernization Act. Other publications span a broad array of topics such as: corporate accountability, the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act, corporate criminal liability and enforcement, health claims, supplements, product classification, personal care products safety, duty to warn, preemption, promotion, tobacco, stem cells, risk assessment and globalization.

Her writing expertise led her to an appellate clerkship, position as sole corporate pharmaceutical counsel, regulatory affairs attorney and senior deputy attorney general at the Pennsylvania Office of Attorney General (OAG) where she prosecuted cases at the trial and appellate levels and spearheaded the implementation procedures for the Pennsylvania Plain Language Act. She was the first recipient of the “Plain English” Award by the Pennsylvania Bar Association. Who’s Who recognized Ms. Termini’s excellence in the field with the Lifetime Achievement Award in 2017.

Ms. Termini has been actively involved in committees of several professional associations for many years, including her service as Chair of a Food and Drug Law Institute Committee. She is Vice Chair of the Pennsylvania Bar Association Disability Rights and Health Law Committees. She served on the President’s Council at Immaculata University and as Vice Chair of the Justinian Association. Recently, she was recently appointed to the Board membership of the St. Thomas More Law Society.  She is a member of the Central Atlantic Association of Food and Drug Law Officials. Her publications are on SSRN Author page link below.

 
Craig Weiss
President
Consumer Product Testing Company (CPTC

CEP COURSE SPEAKER

Craig Weiss received a B.S. in biology for Monmouth College, prior to arriving at Consumer Product Testing Co. Craig held technical positions at Del Laboratories, Norwich Eaton Pharmaceuticals (Proctor and Gamble) and Roxane Laboratories.

Craig began his career with Consumer Product Testing Co., Inc. as the Vice President of the Product Technology Analysis and Control Division (PTAC), which was comprised of the Microbiology and Analytical Chemistry departments. PTAC, now known as the Analytical Service Division, offers such varied services as water system validations, cleaning validation, production environmental monitoring and routines analysis.


In 1993 Craig became a corporate Vice President and in 1999 he became the President of Consumer Product Testing Co., Inc. Craig is active in many trade organizations and is a member of ICMAD’s board of directors, serving as treasurer and is the chairman of its technical, regulatory committee. Craig is also a member of the SCC and PCPC serving on its Scientific Advisory Committee. Additionally, Craig sits on numerous international expert panels.

 
Joshua Williams Ph.D.
Principal Scientist
Johnson & Johnson Consumer, Inc.

Joshua Williams obtained a BS with honors in Chemical Engineering from The University of Arizona, Tucson, USA. Before obtaining his PhD in Pharmaceutical Science from the University of Arizona College of Pharmacy, he worked in the biotechnology industry as a Formulation Engineer and Coordinator of Analytical Services. He completed two postdoctoral research fellowships in Biomedical Engineering and Cancer Prevention and Control.  Dr. Williams was then offered the position of Assistant Research Professor in Biomedical Engineering to continue his research efforts on skin biology and skin cancer.  In 2014, he was recruited by Johnson & Johnson Consumer, Inc. as Principal Scientist in the Global Skin Care Innovation Research & Development group with specific focus on sun care.

 
Pascal Yvon PharmD, MBA
Consultant
IDEA TESTS Group

Pascal Yvon, PharmD, MBA, has over 25 years of global experience in the life sciences industries, including the cosmetic, biotech, pharmaceutical and diagnostics sectors. He has authored a number of trade journal articles, incl. regulatory columns about cosmetics, and speak at leading industry events and conferences. Dr. Yvon holds a doctorate in pharmacy from the Pharmacy University, Paris, and an executive MBA from Rutgers university, NJ. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, NY Chapter.

 

ANNUAL MEETING PRESENTATION ABSTRACT

5 critical regulatory considerations when developing a new product
Pascal Yvon, Claudine Fioravanti, Benoit Latouche

The main European Regulation EC 1223/2009 is an efficient framework that helps cosmetic manufacturers put safe and performing products on the market. It does not have to be an obstacle if dealt with correctly, and can even be beneficial as it provides guidance on what to do. This presentation will highlight 5 critical requirements to consider when developing a new cosmetic product to integrate a global approach from day 1, optimizing projects and saving time and money. In a didactic approach, the presentation of these key requirements will follow the logical progression and steps of the development process, from formulation development to claim substantiation, and including all safety and efficacy elements in between. When considered early in the development process, addressing these 5 points will facilitate the Product Information File set-up, allowing the product to launch on time.